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On-Board eletrônico glowplug Igniter 1.5V 4A

On-Board eletrônico glowplug Igniter 1.5V 4A

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  • International (Hong Kong)
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4,50 €
Estado:
Disponível
SKU:
IGNIT-3A
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Este dispositivo de ignição glowplug on-board é perfeito para todos os motores de nitro que se usado com um dispositivo de comutação RC permitirá que o glowplug de ser re-energizado a baixas rotações fazendo o motor ultra-confiável e um funcionamento mais suave a velocidades ociosos, especialmente bom na maior 4 motores do curso.

A unidade é uma unidade eletrônica compacta e leve que requer uma entrada de 6 ~ 32V e põe para fora um 1.5V estável em 4 ampères. Muito fácil e simples de instalar, consulte o manual em anexo sob a aba "Files".

Características:
• Compacta e leve
• Fácil de configurar e operar
• tensão de entrada larga

especificações:
Tensão de entrada: 6 ~ 32V
Saída: 1.5V @ 4A
Dimensões: 23x20x7.6mm
Peso: 8g

  • SKU IGNIT-3A
  • Brand HobbyKing
  • Capacidade ( mAh) -
  • Peso 17.0000
  • Comprimento 95.00
  • Packaging Width 15.00
  • Altura 65.00
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Some nice circuit diagrams are there in Files tab, which would help you understand the product. I have added a switch and it comes on when the switch is on, doesn't stay on forever. that would be my recommendation

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Some nice circuit diagrams are there in Files tab, which would help you understand the product. I have added a switch and it comes on when the switch is on, doesn't stay on forever. that would be my recommendation

Input 6-32 volts ... not true,
this product does not work either 7.4 .. with 3 cell lipo lights ...
wrong information

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Input 6-32 volts ... not true,
this product does not work either 7.4 .. with 3 cell lipo lights ...
wrong information

Since the Version 4A quit heavy equipment. The 3A worked very well with 2S Life. Now I need at least a fully charged 2S Lipo (works only for a short time till the V drops down to ~7V) or a 3S Lixx.
Now I have to carry much more weight for the batterie .....

PLEASE change again to 3A...

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Since the Version 4A quit heavy equipment. The 3A worked very well with 2S Life. Now I need at least a fully charged 2S Lipo (works only for a short time till the V drops down to ~7V) or a 3S Lixx.
Now I have to carry much more weight for the batterie .....

PLEASE change again to 3A...

Just got 2 of these, first I thought I was really unlucky in receiving 2 faulty ones, the plug would light if not screwed into the engine (holding against the engine case) but not actually in the engine (tested with amp meter), both ignitors were the same, I was using a fully charged 2S lipo battery so far exceeding the minimum required voltage of 6.0v!, it was only when I went to a 3S battery that everything started to work, it would seem that these 4A versions like a little more voltage than the older ones! Using on a 3S battery though they are great.

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Just got 2 of these, first I thought I was really unlucky in receiving 2 faulty ones, the plug would light if not screwed into the engine (holding against the engine case) but not actually in the engine (tested with amp meter), both ignitors were the same, I was using a fully charged 2S lipo battery so far exceeding the minimum required voltage of 6.0v!, it was only when I went to a 3S battery that everything started to work, it would seem that these 4A versions like a little more voltage than the older ones! Using on a 3S battery though they are great.

Ich habe 2 Stck davon. Beide funktionieren sehr gut. Beim Betrieb mit 2S (800mAh) Glht die Kerze mit der gleichen Farbe wie mit einer 1,5 Volt Batterie, dabei wird ca. 0,43 Ampere vom Akku gezogen. Beim Betrieb mit 3S (2200mAh) Glht die Kerze identisch und vom Akku werden ca. 0,24 Ampere gezogen. Je grer die Spannung, um so geringer der Strom. Eine tolle Sache, mit einem 3S-500mAh kann ich locker eine Stunde voll durchglhen (ich entlade ca. 50pcnt).
Man braucht halt noch einen Schalter, entweder nur zum Starten, oder um den Motor (Sprit mit wenig Nitro und 4 Takt) bei niedriger Drehzahl sicher am laufen zu halten.

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Ich habe 2 Stck davon. Beide funktionieren sehr gut. Beim Betrieb mit 2S (800mAh) Glht die Kerze mit der gleichen Farbe wie mit einer 1,5 Volt Batterie, dabei wird ca. 0,43 Ampere vom Akku gezogen. Beim Betrieb mit 3S (2200mAh) Glht die Kerze identisch und vom Akku werden ca. 0,24 Ampere gezogen. Je grer die Spannung, um so geringer der Strom. Eine tolle Sache, mit einem 3S-500mAh kann ich locker eine Stunde voll durchglhen (ich entlade ca. 50pcnt).
Man braucht halt noch einen Schalter, entweder nur zum Starten, oder um den Motor (Sprit mit wenig Nitro und 4 Takt) bei niedriger Drehzahl sicher am laufen zu halten.

that thing work great, I use one with 2 cell lipo and a electronic switch on the throttle channel , and other with a micro switch attached to the throttle servo with a plastic lever , went the servo go to lower throttle the lever turn the igniter on

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that thing work great, I use one with 2 cell lipo and a electronic switch on the throttle channel , and other with a micro switch attached to the throttle servo with a plastic lever , went the servo go to lower throttle the lever turn the igniter on

This is an excellent product. It puts out a full 1.5V which is perfect for starting. I use my on board glow igniter in my field kit - supplied from a 3S LiPo. I have never had much success with the "Glow Stick" type of glow ignitor as they run at 1.2 V and are marginal with inverted motors which tend to flood the glowplug.
If you are into electronic brain surgery, you can "hack" the circuit board by removing the 5K resistor, and fitting fly leads to a variable pot. This gives you a variable voltage power supply eg 1V to 1.6V. Much more reliable than a conventional power panel, and less prone to blowing plugs. See Files for details of chip.

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This is an excellent product. It puts out a full 1.5V which is perfect for starting. I use my on board glow igniter in my field kit - supplied from a 3S LiPo. I have never had much success with the "Glow Stick" type of glow ignitor as they run at 1.2 V and are marginal with inverted motors which tend to flood the glowplug.
If you are into electronic brain surgery, you can "hack" the circuit board by removing the 5K resistor, and fitting fly leads to a variable pot. This gives you a variable voltage power supply eg 1V to 1.6V. Much more reliable than a conventional power panel, and less prone to blowing plugs. See Files for details of chip.

Nice piece of electronics for glow motors. Great price!



In combination with reciever switch you can turn it on or off via transmitter switch (free channel).



I replace aligator clip on positive side for cap with spring (look product: Remote Glow Plug Adapter/Lead).



Now there is no need for external glow igniter, when starting the engine...

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Nice piece of electronics for glow motors. Great price!



In combination with reciever switch you can turn it on or off via transmitter switch (free channel).



I replace aligator clip on positive side for cap with spring (look product: Remote Glow Plug Adapter/Lead).



Now there is no need for external glow igniter, when starting the engine...

Diese On Board Zndung fr Methanol Modelle funktioiniert gar nicht.
Hab's mit 12V versucht. Kein glhen der Kerze, keine Spannung. Kein Lebenszeichen... Schade.
This thing works not at all.. no glow, no Voltage, nothing... :-(

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Diese On Board Zndung fr Methanol Modelle funktioiniert gar nicht.
Hab's mit 12V versucht. Kein glhen der Kerze, keine Spannung. Kein Lebenszeichen... Schade.
This thing works not at all.. no glow, no Voltage, nothing... :-(

start igniter para manter a vela queimando

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start igniter para manter a vela queimando

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Customer files
MP2307DN_Datasheet Download [445]
No File Name Download [846]
IR3802A Download [665]
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