The Curtiss P-40 was one of the most widely used fighters of WW2 seeing more combat in more theatres globally than any other fighter from either side of the conflict. The later 'N' model was considered by pilots to be the finest version of this versatile aircraft and seeing as Durafly makes the best EPO warbirds out there, what could be better than a P-40N from Durafly.
The Durafly P-40N captures beautifully the classic lines of this much loved (though often over shadowed) fighter, and with the multiple national markings provided in the box, it pays homage to the many airman of the many nations under which it served valiantly in WW2. This P-40N sets a new standard for Durafly both in terms of finish close up on the ground, and truly warbird like performance in the air. Boasting a whole host of unique features that include 100 degree metal trunnion twist and turn retracts for rock solid ground handling, super smooth paint and surface finish with fine scale panel lines, and for the first time with a Durafly 1100mm warbird, a power train suitable for both 3 and 4S set-up with no modifications required.
The P-40N comes with all electronics pre-installed ready to hook up to your choice of 7ch receiver. A minimal part count allows assembly to be completed in just a few steps. The molded EPO airframe has a highly detailed surface finish externally, carbon reinforcement internally and features a color matched hard plastic belly skid. It also has good access to all electronics via the battery/canopy hatch, excellent cooling throughout and of course a very authentic looking scheme. Quality is definitely the name of the game here.
The P-40N feels closer to flying a real warbird than any other model in the Durafly range, and that's a good thing! With its higher than average level of reinforcement in the wing (due to wing and retract geometry) the P-40N is the heaviest single engine warbirds thus far from Durafly. However a well-designed wing and optimal power system ensure that the P-40N is our most enjoyable and realistic flying warbird yet. A 2200mah 65C 3S lipo will give good out and out scale performance, however a 2200mah 25C 4S pack will really bring this model to life for sport and aerobatic flying!
Durafly is proud to bring you this P-40N Warhawk and we're confident you'll share that pride both on the ground, and in the air.
• Ultra fine surface finish and detail
• 100 degree twist and turn metal trunnion retracts and scale gear doors
• Electromagnetic bomb drop system
• Detailed plastic split flaps
• High level of pre-assembly and minimal part count
• Tough EPO construction with extensive carbon reinforcement
• 3 or 4 cell set-up out of the box
• 5 authentic national markings decal sets to choose from
• Authentic and re-applied decals and paint finish
Wingspan: 1100mm (43.3")
Flying Weight: 1300-1400g (45-49oz)
ESC: Durafly 45A Brushless ESC
Motor: Durafly 3536 900kv Outrunner
Prop: 10x5 3 Blade
Servos: 7x 9g (2 Aileron, 2 Flap, Elevator, Rudder, Bomb)
Controls: 6-7ch Required (7 if using included bomb drop)
Retracts: Servoless Twist & Turn, Metal Trunnion, 100 Degree
2200mah 3S 65C or 2200mah 4S 25-35C LiPo Battery
6-7 Channel Transmitter and Receiver
Nice quality plane for the $$$. Finish is great, Landing retact sys is ok, shame you can not dial back the speed. one of mine is not perfectly true alignment but has not caused any issue yet. The Decals are nice, but a pain to install and they don't stay stuck. overall for what you pay you get a nice plane.So far no luck with this plane. Balanced it and went out to fly. Take off resulted in hard pull to the left. got under control and it began to climb at a high rate then stalled to left again. Could not recover. Drill a tree. Put it back together and order a new fuselage. What a joke. The shipping to Alaska cost almost as much as the fuse. Two weeks to get to Alaska and the rudder was almost completely lose from the Tail. Will have to hinge it on. Flew again today and had two successfull take offs. The third a disaster. Pulled to left and cart wheeled into the ground. Will now have to use new fuse after I fix rudder. Not pleased with the plane and more than anything not happy with the shipping costs. Will not be buying anything else from Hobbyking. I can order from Motion rc and have things faster and a 1/4 or less on shipping. Good bye HobbykingOn opening the box I was very impressed. The plane looks terrific, and what a bargain! Very scale like, with flaps and electric retracts! On closer inspection the wing had a couple of small dings, but I figured I could live with that. It took a close inspection to find them.
Assembly went pretty smoothly, but at first I thought half the screws for the control horns were missing. There were only two per horn. I double checked the instructions, and they show only two screws per horn. Why supply horns with four holes if you are only going to put two screws in them? I found a pack of 2mm screws and put them in the empty holes. Probably not necessary, they seemed pretty solid with only two screws, but I had the screws and I'm a bit of a stickler for stuff like that. I don't like empty holes.
Plugged everything in for set up, and flicked the retracts up and down a few times. Who wouldn't? They worked an absolute treat. Then, one of them jammed. It just stopped working. It was up and would not come down. Didn't move at all. Didn't make any buzzing noise or anything. Zilch. Great, I have to buy another retract for it, I thought. I knew from the many posts on the net and experience of friends that Hobbyking's warranty service is rubbish, but that will have to be the subject of another rant at another time. So I jiggled wires (maybe it's just a loose plug) fiddled around, nothing. Then the other one jammed as well. Half way up this time. But at least it tried to move when I flicked the switch. Clutching at straws, I thought it might just be sticking a bit, so sprayed the general area with WD40. Incredibly, it started working properly again. Just on the off chance, I sprayed the other one with WD40 as well. A miracle occurred. It started working again. Panic over.
Next thing I had to do was change the plug on the ESC. My batteries all have Deans plugs. It was too fiddly to do it with the ESC in the plane, so with a bit of fiddling I pulled it out through the front. It isn't "mounted" in any way, it just hangs loose behind the motor. A bit odd, but okay I guess. I did notice that the wires on the motor are extremely stiff though, obviously the cheapest wire available. With the new plug firmly soldered on the ESC I attempted to get the ESC back into its spot, with the motor wires plugged in of course. During this process the plug on one of the motor wires fell off! So, out with the ESC again, and resolder the plug back onto the motor wire. I don't know what kind of solder they use but it took a lot of heat to melt it. I gave the other two plugs a good pull to see if they would come off too, but they seemed firm. Got the ESC back in and everything was looking rosy. Fitted the receiver in the recommended place without too much drama. Plugged everything in and bolted the wings on. Adjusted throws (too easy with a Taranis) and set everything up the way I like it.
Next was the decals. I've never been a huge fan of decals, but the Warhawk looked a bit bare without them, so I thought, what the heck, I'll do the American one with the skull on the nose. Great that there is a choice of decals, and no doubt some of them will find their way onto some of my other planes. But odd that the single most popular nose art on the P40, the shark's teeth, was not one of the options. If it had been there I would definitely have done it. It's by far the best looking P40 nose art imho. Prepare to spend a bit of time on this, it's a painstaking, frustrating process. If you're the least bit OCD you will hate it. Suffice to say I got there in the end, and the decals do make the plane look really good. I only put the big ones on, the small ones are far too hard to get on (who can put on a decal that's 2mm x 3mm?) and anyway you can't see them unless you get up really close.
Of course all the testing and setting up I did for the radio was done without the prop attached. I've got too many scars (and a finger that won't fold all the way) to ever do anything like that with the prop on. So, last job, on with the prop, tighten up the bold nice and tight, and... the shaft broke. The prop adaptor appears to be made out of the cheapest metal available. Well, it looks like metal, maybe it's just grey plastic. But it snapped pretty easily. Now I have to buy another one, again it's not worth hassling with Hobbyking's non existent after sales service to try and get a free one. I'd rather pay the $6.41 and just have it sent to me. Next time I will tighten it up so it's just firm, and hope that the prop stays on.
Beautiful plane, the finish is very nice, you can hardly tell it is foam.I really like the color as well. My main complaint is where are the spinner spares? This is a key component of this plane and it is very unique to this plane. You cant just slap any old spinner on it. I also extended the landing gear and noticed that one of my gear is toed in about 10 deg. Not sure how I will fix this. At least the replacement gear is relatively cheap if I screw it up. For you guys that have problems with the little pin that rotates the gear when it retracts falling out, I found a solution. You will have to partially disassemble each retract but you can solder the pin in place if you have a decent soldering iron. I did this on my Durafly Corsair as the pin kept falling out and it worked beautifully.where are the spinners for this plane? Not real smart to carry the prop blades and not the spinners. Will they ever be available? Were they ever available? They are pretty unique, you cant just throw any old spinner on this plane.I recently purchased this plane and I noticed there are no spinners even listed in parts for this plane. What good are the prop blades with no new spinners? This is a very unique spinner to this plane. you cant just throw anything on it and have it look right. Are these the magical exploding/disappearing spinners like the ones for F-M-S planes? I am not really a fan of bolt on prop blades as I have had too many disintegrate on me and take the nose of my planes with it. If anyone knows the answer I would appreciate hearing from you.I recently purchased this plane and I noticed there are no spinners even listed in parts for this plane. What good are the prop blades with no new spinners? This is a very unique spinner to this plane. you cant just throw anything on it and have it look right. Are these the magical exploding/disappearing spinners like the ones for F-M-S planes? I am not really a fan of bolt on prop blades as I have had too many disintegrate on me and take the nose of my planes with it. If anyone knows the answer I would appreciate hearing from you.plane finish is TOP notch...but Poor design and TOO lightweight built landing gear for this size/weight of plane will keep you grounded as the tiny pin bends or snaps on every other landing...if gear were more substantial I would rate this plane A 10. but a shame the gear ruin owning it.