Turnigy Electric Magnetic Brake System 80mm (3.0") Wheel (2pc) - The Turnigy Electric Magnetic Braking System offers a simple plug & play unit that takes minutes to fit and set up, the braking system is proportional and is controlled via an Auxilliary Channel operated via a slider/rotary knob on your TX. The unit will operate off a wide range of input voltages ranging from 12v~40v, making them ideal for EDF applications. Each wheel unit is pre-assembled and mounted on a 4mm axle, the 800mm lead is also pre-attached meaning you simply plug into the supplied control unit and you are good to go!
Wheel: Alloy/Rubber Tire 80mm/3.0"
Lead Length: 800mm
Weight: 82g (each)
Operating Voltage: 12v~40v (3s~10s)
Output Voltage: 2A/0v~12v
Dimensions: 55mm x 7mm x 26mm
Not fully sactisfied,
realization is poor quality, and brake is not as i like, for a medium gas engine plane is not enought, honestly not very useful.
I have used it on 180cm plane with OS 120, about 6 kg plane....This product works as advertised. You can use it either with the elevator (if your servo moves in the direction required by the brake controller), with a switch (only for panic braking) or with a brake channel. I am using this one because my elevator servo works the wrong way. There are two details to consider: it is very difficult to have a variable braking capability and the other one, is that after braking the wheels are not released and sometimes, get locked until manually released.Totally agree with jj604...mechanically, these are winners, but that's about it.
On my set, the hubs are WAY off center in the tires. Inside it looks like the whole thing shifted while the tire was still warm or something. Horrible fit, and I will be trying to modify a "real" tire to fit as I won't be putting these on an airplane.
Now, on to the mounting of the units. I'm in the process of installing these on a .60 Ugly Stik...my "old reliable" test bed. The Stik has tricycle gear with "leaf" mains. The shaft fits perfectly into the leaf, but using a wheel collar by itself to attach, once that brake starts applying pressure, the whole hub, including the shaft will just rotate in the LG hole. There HAS to be a way to anchor the inner hub to the aircraft, but none is supplied.
I've taken one apart and what I think I'll do is drill 2 holes in the leaf and tap threads. I'll then drill shallow dimples into the electromagnet part of the hub - maybe 1/16 or so deep - adjacent to these "set screws". The casing seems to be about 3/32 and I don't want to drill into the windings. Then I'll thread a bolt through the leaf and into the dimple. This should immobilize the hub so when the brake is applied the whole shebang won't rotate - taking the wires with it!
I'll post back with results after the mods.
Well these are pretty good value and they work as advertised.
BUT The problem is they are an all-or-nothing solution. You have to mount the stub axles which are an integral part of the wheel into your UC leg. OK for oleos that are the correct diameter fitting with a grub screw retainer, but difficult for anything else - including a conventional wire or leaf UC. There is no simple way I can see to modify them to use conventional gear.
But that's not the biggest issue. The tyres are awful. Rock hard plastic of some sort rather than soft rubber. Absolutely no give. If you would fly with wooden wheels these might be OK but if you are used to DuBros you are in for a shock! Pity, as the electronics work fine and the braking force is very strong.