The Birdie range ofs are.. well.. CHEEP! CHEEP!
No frills (or feathers) here, just great value for money! Each and every Birdie is QC checked by Hobbyking and placed under a 2 minute load test ensuring your Birdie will be ready to fly!
If your looking for an with basic features and reliability at a bargain price you better bag a Birdie before they all fly the coop!
*This Birdie is the boat version which features water cooling.
Max Current: 200A
Burst Current: 220A
Timing: 1º/7º/15º/30º programmable
Cooling: Water cooled
Cell Type: NiMH/NiCD/
Cell Count: 2s~7S
Throttle Setting: Auto/Soft/Hard
Brake: No Brake/Soft/Medium/Hard
Direction: Clockwise/Counter Clockwise
Cut off: Soft/Hard
A Manual can be downloaded under the files tab for stick input programming.
Very nice and huge boat ESC. I'm using it on my 32" catamaran keeping in mind to overpower it using 6S.I was amazed that I could get this much esc for so little price. Opened mine up and filed down some solder for the motor leads. The manufacturer uses a low quality heat transfer tape ao after waterproofing esc use a high quality high density heat transfer paste and you are good to go. Easy to program and works well. I,ll chime in when it pops.Try to select options by pressing stick in brake/reverse (front) position and hold it, then you'll come in the submenue. If you hear the music sequence you want to change, pull to full throttle and hold. After that you'll automaticly fall back in option menue and you can start again.I have 2 running in my Apparition-II Offshore Brushless RC Twin Hull w/ Twin motor (800mm) they stayed very cool and the boat went very well until one motor died. I have to give the speed controller 5 stars it preformed perfectly and was easy to program.I bought one of these to use in a Traxxas Spartan that I built from a bare hull. I har read of some issues with this specific ESC. More like it not programing, or not working after initial power up. Here is what I found.
1-Took off heat shrink and found cooling plate to be touching 2 our of 3 motor leads.
2-FET's are not level so cooling plate only makes contact with some.
The way I fixed the issues was by sanding the FET's with 120 grit sand paper wrapped around cooling plate to make sure they were all level. Next I applied silicone cooling paste, instead of the "heat transfer tape" that came from the factory, to each FET and installed the cooling plate making sure it wasn't touching any of the motor leads. I them "plastic dipped" the entire ESC to ensure complete waterproofing.
After drying for 1 day I soldered 5mm connectors, applied power, and programed the ESC for 4S. It took programing on first try. It runs flawless with an XK 4082 1600KV motor. I only ran it on 4S so far, but will run it on 6S shortly. On 4S it was cool as if it had never been ran.
I will shortly be ordering at least 2 more. The only reason I gave 3 starts for quality was because of the issue with the cooling plate and uneven FTE's.
It's a great ESC for the cost, and is made by another company (not actually called Birdie), but is pretty much near the cost of getting it directly from the company anyways, so Hobbyking did a good job with this. Few things, unwrap the esc and add thermal grease between the cooling plate and esc because the contact is poor. DEFINITELY seal it with silicon or some other method if there is any possibility of water contact because it will be destroyed quickly otherwise. I only say this because some ESCs have survived after being submerged, but not this guy. Realistically, do not run anywhere near 200A or 7S for this thing. 120A and 5S is more realistic, otherwise it will burn up. Look, if you are going to run a high amp or high voltage setup, you should be spending more than ~$35 for an esc anyways.